Pope Francis Dies at 88: Remembering His Roots at the Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral
- Natalija Ugrina
- 1 day ago
- 5 min read
The bells of the Metropolitan Cathedral in Buenos Aires toll today as Pope Francis dies at 88, leaving the historic cathedral where he served as Archbishop in mourning. Having walked through these very halls earlier this year, I find myself reflecting on the profound connection between this magnificent cathedral and the man who would become the first Latin American Pope. Having lived in Rome and regularly visited St. Peter's Basilica and Vatican City during my time there, I developed a deep appreciation for the profound connection between sacred spaces and their spiritual leaders.
A Sacred Space in the Heart of Buenos Aires
Standing proudly at Plaza de Mayo, the Metropolitan Cathedral commands attention with its neoclassical façade, twelve columns representing the apostles reaching toward the sky. As Argentina's main Catholic church, it served as Pope Francis's spiritual headquarters during his time as Archbishop of Buenos Aires from 1998 to 2013.
Through the Centuries: A Cathedral's Journey
While most visitors admire the Metropolitan Cathedral's neoclassical façade, few know the fascinating story of its evolution through five different structures. Standing in Plaza de Mayo today, it's hard to imagine that this grand edifice began as a humble mud and straw construction in 1580, when Buenos Aires was nothing more than a colonial outpost.
The Cathedral's first proper church, built in 1593, was little more than a simple adobe building with a thatched roof. By 1605, a second, more substantial structure rose from its foundation, only to be declared unsafe and demolished in 1616. The third building collapsed in 1752, leading to the ambitious project we see today – though its completion would take another seventy years.
The current Cathedral's construction began in 1752, under the supervision of Italian architects Antonio Masella and José Bianchi. Their design incorporated elements of both Spanish Colonial architecture and the emerging Neoclassical style that was revolutionizing European architecture. However, construction wasn't a straightforward process. Political upheavals, including Argentina's independence movement, repeatedly interrupted the work.
Perhaps the most intriguing aspect of the Cathedral's history is its façade. The original design called for a more traditional Spanish Colonial appearance, but by the time construction neared completion in the early 1820s, neoclassical architecture had become the symbol of republican values and enlightenment. The decision was made to add the current Greek-style portico – those twelve iconic columns we see today – making the Cathedral a unique architectural hybrid that tells the story of a nation's transition from colony to republic.
Less known is the French influence on the Cathedral's final design. The interior's barrel vaults and dome draw inspiration from the French neoclassical style, while the altar's baroque elements reflect an earlier Spanish colonial influence. This blend of styles wasn't just aesthetic choice – it represented Buenos Aires's emergence as a cosmopolitan city looking beyond Spanish influence.
The Heart of History: San Martín's Mausoleum
The Cathedral's most significant historical feature is the mausoleum of General José de San Martín, added in 1877. The black marble sarcophagus, draped with Argentina's flag, rests beneath an eternal flame. Three white marble sculptures representing Argentina, Chile, and Peru stand in tribute to South America's liberator. The changing of the guard ceremony, performed every two hours, maintains a solemn vigil over this sacred space.
Life Before the Papacy: Jorge Bergoglio's Buenos Aires
Jorge Mario Bergoglio was born on December 17, 1936, in the Flores neighborhood of Buenos Aires, the eldest of five children born to Italian immigrants. At 21, following a severe case of pneumonia that led to the removal of part of his lung, he made the decision to join the Jesuits in 1958.
The Simple Archbishop
During his tenure as Archbishop (1998-2013), Bergoglio became known for his humble approach to life. He chose to live in a simple apartment rather than the grand Archbishop's palace and was often seen taking public transportation through the city streets.
The Cathedral's Role
Under his leadership as Archbishop, the Metropolitan Cathedral served as more than just a religious institution. It became a center for community outreach and social justice, establishing programs to help the poor and marginalized – themes that would later define his papacy.
As Pope Francis Dies, Buenos Aires Cathedral's Museum Becomes Memorial Ground
Today, the Cathedral houses the Pope Francis Museum, displaying personal items and liturgical objects from his time as Archbishop. This collection, spanning his 15 years of service from 1998 to 2013, offers visitors a glimpse into his ministry in Buenos Aires.
Sacred Spaces Within
The Cathedral houses several significant spaces:
1. The Main Altar: Where countless masses have been celebrated
2. The Side Chapels: Each with its own unique history and artwork
3. The Historic Crypt: Housing Argentina's independence heroes
4. San Martín's Mausoleum: A national shrine to Argentina's liberator
A Sweet Connection
During my South American journey, I discovered an unexpected connection to Pope Francis's legacy in Santa Cruz, Bolivia. At Casa Cero ice cream shop, I found "Crema de Francisco" – an ice cream flavor inspired by the Pope himself, showing how his influence extends beyond cathedral walls into everyday South American culture.
Practical Information for Visitors
Location: Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires
Hours: Monday to Friday 7:30 AM - 6:30 PM; Weekends 9:00 AM - 7:00 PM
Dress Code: Respectful attire required (shoulders and knees covered)
Photography: Allowed without flash
Guided Tours: Available in multiple languages
Nearest Subway: Plaza de Mayo station
Travel Tips:
• Visit early morning to avoid crowds
• Don't miss the changing of the guard at San Martín's tomb (every two hours)
• Take time to explore the side chapels
• Look for the architectural details that blend different periods
• Join a guided tour to learn about the cathedral's history
Personal Reflection
As someone who lived in Rome and made regular visits to St. Peter's Basilica and Vatican City, I find the Metropolitan Cathedral uniquely moving. The contrast between the grandeur of St. Peter's, where Pope Francis would eventually lead the Church, and the more modest but equally sacred Metropolitan Cathedral where he served as Archbishop, tells a powerful story of his journey.
Today, as the world mourns Pope Francis, this cathedral stands as more than just a building – it's a testament to how one person's journey can transform not just a space, but the entire world.
Planning Your Visit:
• Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon
• Recommended Time: 1-2 hours
• Don't Forget: Your camera and a light scarf for covering shoulders
• Consider joining a guided tour for deeper historical insights