This summer, I found myself back in Split, the city where I grew up, but it felt different this time. After years of living abroad, I was seeing my hometown through the eyes of a visitor—everything seemed new, even though it was all so familiar. Wandering through the ancient streets of Split, I was drawn to the history that I had taken for granted as a child. And that’s when I stumbled upon a tiny gem that I had never fully appreciated before: the Church of St. Martin.
Nestled within the walls of Diocletian's Palace, the Church of St. Martin (Crkva Sv. Martina) is not just the smallest church in Split—it’s also the narrowest. This charming little sanctuary, just 1.64 meters wide and 10 meters long, might be easy to miss if you’re not looking for it. But once you find it, you’ll realize that it’s a fascinating piece of Split’s rich historical tapestry, one that offers a unique perspective on the city’s past.
A Step Back in Time: The Historical Significance of St. Martin’s
The Church of St. Martin is tucked away above the northern gate of Diocletian's Palace, known as the Porta Aurea, or Golden Gate. This gate was originally intended to be the main entrance to the palace, and it was adorned with elaborate statues that reflected the power and prestige of the Roman Empire. In the upper niches, statues of Emperor Diocletian and his co-regent Maximian once stood, with an eagle—the symbol of Jupiter—between them. Below, statues of their successors, Caesars Galerius and Constantine, were placed, following the iconography of the tetrarchy, the rule by four emperors.
Interestingly, there are still four pedestals visible on top of the wall today. Historical drawings from the 18th century show that there were originally five, suggesting that these pedestals may have supported additional statues. However, it remains a mystery why the same imperial figures would have been represented twice on the same façade. This is one of those historical quirks that has yet to be fully explained.
As time went on, the significance of the gates evolved. Each gate of the palace was eventually dedicated to a patron saint. The Golden Gate, where St. Martin’s Church is located, became associated with St. Martin, the patron saint of soldiers. Like St. Theodore, who is connected with the Western Gate, St. Martin was particularly venerated during the later Roman period under Emperor Justinian (527-565 AD). It’s fascinating to think about how these spaces, originally designed for military and imperial purposes, were later adapted for spiritual use.
Inside St. Martin’s: A Blend of Simplicity and History
Stepping inside the Church of St. Martin is like taking a step back in time. Despite its small size, the church is rich in history and character. The altar screen, which divides the church into two parts, is made of marble and beautifully decorated with intricate carvings of vines, grapevines, and griffins. On the altar wall, the only one of its kind preserved in situ in Dalmatia, there’s an inscription dedicating the church to the Virgin Mary, St. Gregory the Pope, and Blessed Martin.
The architectural elements of the church tell a story of its evolution over the centuries. The barrel vault and the altar in the apse, with a carved cross from the early Christian period, are believed to date back to the 9th century, during the Byzantine era. This stage also includes a small window set into what were once large antique openings on the southern wall. Later, in the 11th century, the church saw further Byzantine influence with the addition of an altarpiece and a bell tower, though the tower has since been destroyed.
These features, combined with the church’s narrow, almost hidden location, make St. Martin’s a unique blend of simplicity and historical significance. It’s amazing to think that this tiny space was once a guardhouse, part of the palace’s defensive system, before being converted into a church during the 6th century as the complex became a refuge for people fleeing from surrounding areas.
Rediscovering My Hometown: The Smallest Church in Split
As I wandered through Split this summer, I was struck by how much there is still to discover, even in a city I thought I knew so well. The Church of St. Martin, with its rich history and unique position within Diocletian’s Palace, is a perfect example of the hidden treasures that make Split such a fascinating place.
For years, I had walked by this church without really noticing it, without fully understanding the story behind it. But this time was different. Standing in the tiny, narrow sanctuary, I felt a deep connection to the history of my hometown. It was a reminder that Split isn’t just a backdrop to my childhood; it’s a city with layers of history, each one adding depth and meaning to the place I call home.
Why You Should Visit the Church of St. Martin
If you’re planning a trip to Split, or even if you’re a local who thinks you’ve seen it all, I highly recommend taking the time to seek out the Church of St. Martin. It might be small, but it’s packed with history and charm. Its narrow, almost secretive location within the palace walls makes it feel like a discovery waiting to happen.
Visiting St. Martin’s is a brief experience—after all, there’s only so much you can explore in such a small space—but it’s one that leaves a lasting impression. The church’s history, its architectural details, and its unique position above the Golden Gate offer a different perspective on Split’s rich past. It’s a reminder that even in a city as ancient and well-trodden as Split, there are still secrets to uncover and stories to tell.
So, the next time you find yourself in Split, whether you’re a visitor or a local rediscovering your city, make sure to stop by the Church of St. Martin. You might just find, as I did, that the smallest and narrowest places can often hold the biggest surprises and the most profound connections to the history of this incredible city. And who knows? You might even feel a little bit like a tourist in your own story, discovering a new layer of Split that you never knew existed.
